Leh Diary

To get off from the daily hectic schedule, to get a break from the recent recession blues, the two of us, Vivek and I decided for a weekend trip. Leh had been striking our minds for a quite long time by virtue of being an entirely different destination from the usual hill stations.

The long weekend of Good Friday was chosen to be the best suited. The decision to go to Leh was pretty hectic without any prior confirmations of best time to travel or staying options but this however happened to be the right time according to us as it was the onset of summer and beginning of tourist season in that region. It is said that during the peak season the tourists outnumber the local Ladakhis.

Day1

Well, on 10th April, we started off early morning for airport to fly by Kingfisher's Delhi-Leh flight. The previous night I had returned from Mumbai after I got released from a project. The Mumbai-Delhi flight got delayed and because of which I had reached Gurgaon by midnight. I just had three hours of sleep the last night which made me laid back during the air travel to Leh. Both of us wanted to enjoy the outside view from the plane and thus opted for individual window seats. I felt a strong a desire to sleep as flight took off only to wake up when the snacks were being served in the middle of the flight. I was surprised to see that people around me had actually left their seats with their digicams and camcorders to shoot the outside view. Without missing a second I also looked out of the window only to be taken away by the breathtaking view outside. The milky white scenic beauty of the snow covered Himalayan ranges was mesmerizing.

When the aircraft landed at Kishok Bakula Ranpoche Airport of Leh it was around 7:45 am. The outside temperature was announced as -2 C. It was a sunny day although and wind was not blowing. As I disembarked the Sun’s warm welcome was comforting and actually I was not feeling the need of any jacket. When I looked around I was rendered speechless. The airport is located in a large plain with hills all around. Snow had melted from some of the hills which were at proximity giving them a rusty brown color. The distant mountains were still ice capped. I had been to other hill stations and the greenery there was undoubtedly beautiful but this beauty is truly unmatched.

The airport terminal was busy, full of hustle and bustle. Passengers included some Army officials as well, Leh being a strategic point from the defense perspective. In fact, to us it seemed to be full of activity only during mornings because all the three flight operatives; the Indian, the Jet and the Kingfisher fly to and from Leh in the morning itself. Visiting the tourist information center, located in the terminal is a good choice, especially, when your trip is almost sudden just like ours. We were greeted there by a middle aged Ladakhi woman wearing a shawl and who seemed to be equally versed in Ladakhi, Hindi and English. She gave us a road map of Leh and showed us some pointers where we could stay.

From the terminal we hired a taxi to city. The driver himself took us to hotel Tso Kar, near the main market in city, where we negotiated for Rs.850 a day. The room we hired was neat and tidy and whose windows opened southwards to the view of a distant ice capped mountain. The room was having everything in place, a T.V. with unclear transmission and a phone which never looked like working. We were not provided room heater as well, which was a part of negotiation we had for the room. However, we never felt the need to these things much, esp. the heater. The bathroom was having a supply of hot water which was one of the most essential things we would have been requiring. The drinking water was also being served hot which is definitely preferred in such extreme climates.

After finalizing our stay we let the taxi driver go but not before exchanging our contact numbers. His name was Zigmit Namgyal, a local guy in his early twenties with an average stature. We discussed our probable plans of the day with him and assured to give him a call if we decide anything further. After dumping our luggage we went to have some breakfast at a restaurant which was just a couple of yards away from our hotel. We ordered bread and butter, half fried egg and steaming hot tea. All served under a clear sunny sky. The wind was also not blowing so the bright sun was really rejuvenating with its warm rays. On the breakfast table it was decided that we would not roam any more and that I would rather supplement my last night’s incomplete sleep. Vivek too was in a mood to get couched in warm bedding. For the next couple of hours we slept like anything. When we got up in the afternoon we were feeling better compared to that of morning. Perhaps by now all our cells came to know that there would be a scarce supply of oxygen for the next two days and thus they adapted to the environment.

Acclimatization is highly recommended for tourists who fly to Leh. A person is more susceptible to high altitude sickness the first day. Travelers are advised to take rest on their first day of visit to Leh. Just because the region is located on a high altitude, scarcity of oxygen makes one feel dizzy. The head wobbles and feeling of breathlessness is obvious while walking briskly which in effect leave you unfit for outing. It is advisable to drink lots and lots of water when you are there. Tea lovers like me find it blissful to be at places like these as it is recommended to have a good amount of tea there.

Two rounds of breakfast; first in the plane and later at the restaurant was enough for us skip our lunch. I called up Zigmit only to know that his vehicle was getting repaired and would need time. We dropped the idea of waiting for him up and headed straightaway to nearby taxi stand. A couple of tourist attractions are in the city itself and that can be covered in half a day. Being a tourist destination and that too which is specially cut-off from the mainland for most of the time in a year, one can easily experience the taxi tariffs to be pretty high. We negotiated a taxi for Rs.500 who would take us around city.

The first place we visited was Leh palace aka the Royal Palace. Built in 17th century by King Singge Namgyal, this used to be his summer palace. The palace has nine storeys and has been left to ruin since the king moved to Stok Palace. Most of the doors were locked out for unknown reasons and at some corners restoration work for wooden shelves was being carried out. Spending around half an hour at the palace we headed for Tsemo castle aka Tsemo monastery. Legends say earlier the king Namgyal had decided to build his palace where now the monastery is but after continuous unsuccessful attempts he built a monastery first and then the palace. The Tsemo monastery is situated at further height than the Royal Palace which is just 20 mins drive away from the palace.
There’s a shortcut as well from the palace to the monastery, for those who would prefer to climb the rocky cliff and reach there. We preferred the former way, as any humble IT professional would do, who rather spends most part of the day on his desk before a descent sized flat screen exercising his fingers over the keyboard. I am also pretty sure no such person would unnecessarily like to experience the acute headache and breathlessness, esp. when he has already been struggling with “high-altitude-sickness-hit-recession.” At least Vivek and I shared the same opinion, so we took our taxi towards the Tsemo castle. We were expecting to meet some monks inside since this was our very first visit to any monastery but to hit our enthusiasm we were welcomed by locked doors. We clicked a couple of shots around; the walls, the corners and a marvelous view of city from such a height.

Leaving Tsemo castle behind, we headed off for Shanti Stupa aka Japani Stupa. By this time my cam bat exhausted. The scenic beauty of the region can’t keep you off from clicking your camera, a beauty of its kind, unmatched to any other hill station. While most of the hilly areas are covered with local vegetation, this place has no vegetation at all. Whatever trees we saw had dried up in winters and are just seen around populated areas. Hills on the other hand are rocky, rusty and brown colored. While ice had melted from most of the cliffs around region, higher mountains beyond were still covered with snow. Both these features along with clear blue sky overhead with patches of white clouds make a mesmerizing picturesque surrounding. To add to this, the breeze that blows or what you feel inside your car is truly worth experiencing.
By the time I changed my camera battery and carried on it was around 5:30 pm. We were in a bit hurry as dim light would lessen the visibility around the stupa. Also, it was getting colder. Our car dropped us on the gate of the stupa. As we entered the stupa, we came to a large terrace surrounding the stupa. There were few stairs to reach the stupa proper. I don’t remember the exact reason, but we decided to stay in the open and not to go inside the stupa. One possible reason I could say that we decided to shoot some photographs of the city from that point. Actually, I had brought my tripod as well when I went to change the battery as I was struck by an intuition to see something different in the mountains.

The Sun was setting, but the twilight was different from what I experience on plains. I could make that the Sun had not actually set, it was still above the horizon, but its rays were being blocked by the mountains. This actually had a dual effect. At one time there’s still some light in the sky while it was getting dim in the city. The distant summits were gleamy but the foothills were getting murky. It was beautiful to see sky changing its color from blue to orange and gradually getting darker. Simultaneously, the city lights were being put on. So you actually had the combination of sinking blue sky with a couple of stars started showing up, the area getting shady and the city getting illuminated. What excuse else the shutterbugs like us would require to mount our camera on tripod. Then you switch to manual mode and have aperture priorities, exposure settings and shutter delays like settings to play with.
But as the evening fell, it brought cold along with itself. Wind had started blowing by then and because of being on a height and in open we were badly affected. It was getting chilly and weather becoming unbearable. I was on phone with a friend of mine but it was becoming impossible for me to hold the mobile in my hands. We were wearing jackets which seemed to be insufficient then. Gloves and woolen caps were protective but then our faces were exposed. No wonder if we would have got frost bitten then. We hurriedly packed up things and ran towards the car to get warm inside. Once inside, I quickly pulled up the window glasses and asked driver to carry on towards our hotel.

It got dark and was no point to hang out more. We cancelled our plan to visit the last decide point of the trip, the Kali Mata Mandir. I don’t know how old this temple is exactly but worth visiting for its very famous among army. They have been heard being highly blessed with the deity. One more specialty of this temple, it is said that the face of deity remains always covered for it is so dreadful and ferocious that no one can actually stand it. Stories like women getting fainted on seeing the face is also quite popular. These may be rumors, but since we haven’t visited there, can’t tell the actual account.

We came back to our hotel and paid taxi driver 350 bucks for we chucked off one spot in the list and headed straightaway for quilts. Vivek by this time started feeling some headache and decided to take good rest. I took a nap and then started off for market. I prepared myself this time for the wintry atmosphere outside. Body warmers both upper and inner were drawn. A jacket, cap and gloves were worn. I didn’t have any woolen socks so I put on two of them. Only after covering this much I stepped out of my room.

Marketplace of Leh city was yet unexplored but I unknowingly set out relatively late. Since it was not full summers and traders come from distant villages the market got closed around half past seven. Only a handful of cyber cafés, some tourist reservation centers and foreign exchange counters were open. Rest, the local market was closed by then. Also, there were no streetlights which made me feel useless to rove around. I bought a strip of Disprin for Vivek and headed for dinner at the restaurant nearby our hotel where we had breakfast earlier that day.

A nice north Indian dish from the menu was ordered along with a couple of chapattis. I asked for some pieces of garlic as well. I am in a habit of having these during winters and frankly speaking if you ignore the bad breath it gives you, garlic is actually good to keep you warm during winters. As a precautionary measure, I took three big pieces of them. Vivek was like, “How can I?” But, I advised to have at least one, even if he dislikes the odor. He tried scratching one but I felt he wasn’t able to overcome the dilemma.

Coming back to room after a contended dinner, Vivek at once went to sleep. I spent some time emptying my camera memory onto my laptop. Laptop! yes, I carried with me for this being the only reason. 2 Gigs of memory lasts just one day with me when I keep on clicking and shooting videos and that too at such a picturesque destination. I spent another half an hour or so going through my photographs and videos of the day. Soon, I started feeling sleepy after a long day’s hectic program. As far as, garlic is concerned, I would say, this actually helped me in night. I, in fact had to wake up in the middle of night and take some cold water to get relieved from the heat I was feeling in my couch. The next day, while Vivek complained about chilly night, I spoke about how much I perspired.